Thursday, July 17, 2008

Accra Academy (High School)

This morning I visited students (all boys) at the Accra Academy School. This is a government operated school in Accra. I interviewed the students about their perspective on being a young person in Ghana. It was interesting to find out that students in Ghana face some of the same issues as those in the States. However, some of the issues were very different. For example most of my students in the States have to deal with gang related violence, while a major problem in Ghana are bad roads. This problem adds an extra half hour to transportation time for students going to school. However, the students did talk about negative peer pressure, and young people committing crimes to survive - but- it would be out of the ordinary for young people to use guns in Ghana the way that they do in the States.

I felt right at home in Accra Academy. As soon as I walked into the classroom and experienced the behavior of the students it immediately reminded me of being in a classroom at my school, Urban Assembly Academy of History and Citizenship for Young Men. There where plenty of "oooooohs" "aaaaaahs" and "aaaaaaaaays" after there peers spoke. Also, a bunch of giggling, teasing and playing around. This put a big smile on my face. One thing that I did get from these young men is that they are extremely serious about their education and their future. As one of the students mentioned, even with an education it is still difficult to survive financially in Ghana. These young men are well aware of the fact that they have to work extra hard!

Here is a pic of Accra Academy:


Here is me and the young scholars:


Here is a student talking to Che:



Here is me and more students having a cool time:

Nima/Mamobi

Yesterday I interviewed some super cool hip hop artists in Nima and Mamobi.
These two hoods are known to be the most hardcore in Accra. The average Ghanaian would say this this area is rough. Of course as in any "hood" whether in NYC or Accra, the problems are similar: poverty and lack of quality education which leads to a host of other problems: high drop out rates, drug abuse and crime. In the midst of the madness however, the core of the community is felt once you allow yourself to be one with it. Although, I only spent about two hours in this area, I allowed myself to just experience the experience. To do this I didn't focus on the fact people were living in harsh conditions, but I got a chance to really vibe with the people. Once I did this, I got a sense of the community. Elders are respected, people look out for one another, and everyone seems to live like a family. I felt welcomed and had a great time.

Here is a pic of some youths playing soccer.



Here is a shot of me and some cool little ones. It was so funny, I was trying to get one of the youths to take the photo of me. They were so delighted to see themselves in the photos that I wanted them to get a chance to be a photographer too. Everyone but on little girl was too shy. So she braved up and took this pic. She was delighted to see the end product.

Hiplife in the making...

One of the things that I am doing in Ghana is documenting the hip life/hip hop scene here in Ghana. When a re-do my website you will be able to hear the music and experience more of my photos.. Also look out for my articles in the magazines...more to come.

Yesterday I interviewed and photographed a huge Ghanaian hip life artist, Samini, during his studio session. The music that I heard during the session sounded great. It sounds a little like Reggae but the core is definitely West African. Hip life is form of "youth music" started here in Ghana just about twenty years ago.

Here is a pic of Samini in the studio with his producer (Zapp), manager,and some other peeps. They are listening to the song that he just finished recording.

Here is a pic of hiplife/hip-hop media master, radio host,mc, manager, and rising entrepreneur , Van Souljah. Souljah has been extremely instrumental in hooking me up with all of the pertinent hip life/hip hop artists here in Ghana. Much respect Van!

Interesting things that I saw yesterday...

These photos were taken while driving through Accra.



Tuesday, July 15, 2008

Well that's it for tonight

It's about eight o'clock - I'm in a small internet cafe on the same block as my hotel. I'm listening to the radio playing songs from Lil' Wayne to local artists like Praye - of course I'm digging the local artist more... The computers are old school dell monitors/and dell/compaq hard drives - they all seem to have been built. It cost me 60 gp's an hour to use the internet here. That's about 60 cents an hour. Not bad huh!

Tomorrow I'm going to get some fabric sewn.
I must admit that as much as I try not be so materialistic, I love fashion. So I am a little OD when it comes to getting some cool outfits made. I ordered some great dresses last week. Just about two hours ago, I ordered two suits and two dresses. When I went to Bonwire, (the Kente Cloth town) I bought a beautiful hand woven cloth. Tomorrow I'm going to get a dress made from it, and two more sun dresses from these beautiful fabrics that I got from the Cape Coast.
Check out my fabrics: The one on the far right was woven in Bonwire...

Mommy looking fabulous...on the way to the lake...

Silence is beautiful...




At the time that we took this photograph I experienced silence in the most beautiful way. We were on the top a mountain that leads down to lake Bosomtwi. It was so silent on that mountain. Now I understand why Buddha and Moses went to the mountain to meditate. We later drove down to lake Bosomtwi. According the sub-chief and caretaker of the lake, Bosomtwi was formed by a meteorite. The water came from the earth and the lake expanded slowly over the years. The lake was discovered by a hunter in the 1700's. Later several villages formed around the lake depending on it as a major resource. This lake is very important to the community as it is used for several things, including spiritual cleansing, and food. Every year the chiefs perform libations, animal sacrifices and other spiritual activities at the lake so that it would continue to support the community. The sub-chief told us that these yearly spiritual routines began after several people would drown in the lake every year. After performing libations and things of this nature, the lake no longer took people. The most interesting thing about the lake is that Tilapia fish is the only fish that will survive in this lake. Conservatist have tries to put at least five different fish in the lake and they all died. Conservatist from Nevada (USA)are constantly visiting and studying this lake. According to the sub-chief, the Tilapia that lives in this lake evolved from within the lake.

Here is a pic of the Lake Bosomtwi:

Remembering our ancestors...

A few years ago I attended the Annual Tribute to the Ancestors ceremony at Coney Island beach. This is truly amazing, calming and spiritual ritual that happens every year to pay respect to our ancestors who were forced into slavery via the Trans-Atlantic Slave Trade. It's one thing to be in America, Brooklyn to be exact and gaze into the ocean wondering how brutal the journey of the Middle Passage must have been, however on the other side of the ocean it is a different story. When we first arrived in the Cape Coast on Friday, we visited the Cape Coast Castle. On Saturday we visited Elmina Castle. Both castles are a very old and dingy white as they stand on the coast Ghana. I must say that I was very frustrated and angry after visiting both castles. We visited the actual dungeons in which our ancestors, lay chained at the ankles, feet and necks in dark, hot, humid and dehumanizing conditions. They were kept in these dungeons for months before actually boarding the ships. At this time they were left to lie in defication, urine, menstruation, and vomit. Just standing in these rooms left me with an eery feeling. I was also extremely confused wondering how could people be so evil?

To make matters worse we visted "death rooms" or rooms "of no return." These dark rooms were used for our ancestors who fought back or refused to be raped and abused. They would be taken there to be beaten and die. We visited the Governors Room where women were repeatedly raped. As I looked through the "doors of no return" for the first time, the waters cried in anguish and resistance.

One of the most profound things that I learned during these visits was that the Europeans set up there first churches and schools in the slave castles. Now isn't that something, right under the first Roman Catholic Church in Ghana, people were experiencing the most vicious holocaust to take place on earth. To add icing on the cake some "good" Africans were taken to Europe and "trained" to come back to Africa and become missionaries - and "education" begins...interesting.

Interestingly enough, African Chiefs created plaques formally apologizing for participating in such a dehumanizing activity such at the Trans-Atlantic Slave Trade. Our tour guide made it clear that African Chiefs couldn't imagine in a million years the harsh conditions that their brethren and sistren would face. For servitide in Africa was something completely different.

Here is a photo of an entrance to the male slave dungeon - more photos will be posted when I return home...





Today Amal and Che reunite with friends...

Since we moved to the Ecotoure Lodge last week, Uncle Edwards children visited Amal and Che everyday. They exchanged stories about Ghana and the United States and played a bunch of games together. The youngest is Kofi, just like our Kofi at home. Here is a photo of the silly crew:

Back to the Ecotoure Lodge...

The Ecotoure Lodge in Dansoman, Accra is Amal and Che's favorite hotel. They love it. I didn't realize that I had two hotel critics on hand...

Here is a photo of our room at the Ecotoure Lodge.



Some real rain...

It is officially rainy season in Ghana, however today was the first time that I experienced real rain during the day. Over the past weeks it would drizzle and fade away. Also, one night it poured, I thought I was going to wake up in a flood. On our drive back to Accra, it rained for half of the trip. The road is very narrow and winds often so I am glad that we have truly skilled driver. Big up to Phillip for bringing us back to Accra safely.

The drive took about 4 hours. Here are some pics that I took along the way. I was in love with the sky. It was dark, gloomy but beautiful.



Monday, July 14, 2008

Talk about an adventure

Two days ago the boys and I went to Kakum Park. Kakum is a small rain forest in Ghana. We've been hearing all along that we must go on the canopy's in Kakum park while visiting the Cape Coast, so we decided to do it. Not REALLY knowing we hiked up a mountain and into the rain forest. Just as we were about to enter the forest the tour guide tells us of all of the wild animals living in th forest. You all know how I feel about snakes, of course this man had to tell me that in this forest lives pythons, cobras and four other snakes that I purposely forgot. I made the decision in my head that if I saw one, I would just have to overcome my fear at that moment. One part of me really wanted to turn back though. I carefully walked through the forest holding Che's hand, I'm not sure who was supporting who..."stop squeezing my hands" he kept saying. I was just saying to myself, "snakes stay away from the path pleeeease." WE finally made it up to the canopy. It didn't look that bad from the starting point. However, when we got to the entrance we learned that there were seven canopies attached to each other with the highest at approximately 1000 feet suspended over sea level. WE were warned - don't look down if you are afraid of heights...

By the time I got to the middle of the first one, I said to myself "Self what did you get yourself into" We were so high above the ground that it was unbelievable. You couldn't even see the ground - we were surrounded by forest. By the time we got off the first one Amal and Che wanted to turn back and yes..they were in tears. However, we couldn't turn back. It was way too narrow and people were behind us. We had to keep moving because the canopies shouldn't hold too many people at once and we needed to maintain the balance. Although I'm not really afraid of heights, I must admit it was quite scary up there. The canopies were wobbly and we were suspended 1000 feet. I had to encourage my boys though, so we all chanted..."I can do this, I can do this" and eventually we did it... They were so excited to get off that thing...and they both agreed that if they could get through that they could get through anything. They felt proud...wooosh...what an experience. On the good side of things the view was amazing, it just gives you a sense of the beauty of nature.



One Africa to St. Max...places to stay

We stayed at the One Africa resort in Cape Coast owned by a brother named El Shabazz from Brooklyn. He relocated to Ghana and has been living here for seventeen years. Actually there are quite a few African Americans who made a permanent shift to the other side of the Ocean. Today I had a conversation with the hotel manager St. Max, my hotel in Kumasi. He's from Memphis and relocated here two years ago. He was simply fed up with the West and made the big move.

If you want the feel of the "village" overlooking the Atlantic Ocean with some delicious home cooked food One Africa is the place for you. www.oneafricaghana.com

Below is a photograph of the inside of our bungalow at One Africa. Our bungalow was named after Marcus Garvey. In the rooms are photographs of Garvey as well as a booklet with a brief biography and photos. Other rooms are named after people like: Harriet Tubman and John Henrik Clarke...



Our hotel room at St. Max...
Thank goodness to St. Max for free internet connection!!!! The food is tasty too. I'm still full from lunch.

It's campaign time..

This December Ghanaians will be voting for a new president. Presidential candidate Nana Afuko-Addo was supported by many of Ghana's top musicians at a huge beach party which took place at Labadi Beach in Accra.

Nana Addo Dankwa Akufo-Addo, Presidential Candidate of the New Patriotic Party (NPP), assured Ghanaians that government under his leadership would ensure free Senior High School Education for Ghanaians.


Below: Nana Addo Dankwa Akufo-Addo makes a speech..



Super Large hip life group Praye perform and has the crowd going CRAZY...


Daily hustle...

With the cost of living being so high, many people even children have to develop their market in order to make extra money. This can mean selling any thing from fruits to DVD's. I bought a really nice hand made bracelet from this young lady wearing the Brooklyn t-shirt. See that Brooklyn's always in the house!!!


A young man asks our driver Phillip if he would like to buy some grapes..

Everyday people on the streets of Ghana

Uncles and aunties...

In Ghana it is customary to refer to elders as uncle or aunty rather than Mr. and Ms.
So here is Che with Uncle Siddique. Uncle Siddique has been so wonderful to us during our stay in Ghana...

Cool bracelet

Amal and Che had name bracelets woven for them in just a few minutes.

The food...

My favorite dish so far is Red Red. This is a combination of black eye peas and palm oil served with fried ripe plantains...yummy! I also had the same dish made with coconut oil super duper yummy!!



The other day we went to a restaurant to eat and Amal took this photo..





Just like typical Americans Amal and Che just had to have some pizza.

Gas prices are high everywhere.

The last time I checked the gas price was 5.20 Ghana Cedis (About 5 US Dollars) per gallon. It's crazy because the cost of living is high. As you can see the Ghana Cedis is almost one to one with the U.S. dollar. However most people are not getting paid a substantial amount of money to keep up with the cost of living.

Sunday, July 13, 2008

on the way to the guest house

corporate giants are everywhere these days...one of the things that caught my eye on the drive to our guest house were the huge advertisements....check them out..



and we arrived in Accra safely...


(Amal and Che at Kokota Airport)

After eleven hours of flying Delta, we finally made it. It was a blessing to get there safely. The plane ride was cool. The only problem is that I only slept for about two hours. After that I listened to my ipod - lots of Bob Marley - while dozing off - off and on. The good thing is that the time seemed to go by quickly. Just at the point when my back started to hurt, and neck needed a massage, we were just an hour away.

Back track to JFK


Here we are waiting at JFK for our plane to arrive.

I'm here!

It took me some time to settle down and find internet access, but I finally did.
It is now July 13, at 10:11pm Ghanaian time and 6:11 pm NYC time. I'm sitting in the hotel lobby of the St. Max hotel in Kumasi. Kumasi is a city located in the Ashanti Region of Ghana. We just arrived here this morning after driving for about three and a half hours from the Cape Coast. The drive was smooth up until we approached some bumpy roads. Thank goodness we have a really good driver who could maneuver his way around the bumpy dirt roads. After about 20 minutes of bumps we made it back on to the highway and the ride was smooth from there on.

Kumasi is an interesting city. The buildings are have an antique feel to them. There seems to be more huge buildings in Kumasi than Accra. There is definitely a lot of business happening in Kumasi.

Today we walked through the Central Market, one of the hugest market places in West Africa. Although the experience was great, it was also a bit overwhelming. I think I'm all marketed out after making my way through the hot busy market in Accra. Woosh what an experience. I did leave with some great buys however - amazingly beautiful fabrics and some delicious young coconut.

Tommorrow we will visit the Ashanti Palace, Bonwire (home of the Kente Cloth), and a few other hot spots in Kumasi.

Well I'm going to back track a bit and kind of relive the first half of our trip through photographs.